WINTERIZING YOUR RV

We winterize our mountain cabins and prepare our cars for the challenges of the cold winter months, so it only makes sense that we would winterize our home on wheels.

For those of us living in climates that are temperate year around, complete winterizing is not necessary. However, any time you are going to leave your travel unit unattended for several weeks, even in a temperate climate, there are preventative measures that can evade expensive damage. For those of us in climates where the temps will drop below freezing, winterizing is a great way to minimize any damage come spring.

The main reason to winterize is of course to prevent the cracking of plumbing pipes from water freezing and expanding in them. Another step to winterizing that many don’t think of involves insuring that your unit is free of all traces of food items that may attract a rodent problem and their ensuing damage.

Step-By-Step Guide To Winterizing Your RV Or Travel Trailer

Items You Will Need:

• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs. • A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump. • A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed. • A wand to clean out holding tanks. • 2-3 gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze. • General cleaning spray or solution such as 409 or Windex.

Step-By-Step Guide:

Step #1: Remove and bypass any inline water filters. Step #2: Drain the fresh water holding tank, then drain and flush the gray water and black water tanks. Step #3: If your unit doesn’t have an automatic flushing system, clean out the black water tank with a wand or a product like “Flush King”, and clean out the gray tank with this product as well. Step #4: Lubricate the termination valves on both tanks with WD40. Step #5: Drain the water heater (only when it is not hot or under pressure) by removing the drain plug and opening the pressure relief valve. Step #6: Open up all of the faucets, hot and cold. Step #7: Open the toilet valve and outside shower valve. Step #8: Open the low point drain lines, both for the hot and cold water lines. Use the water pump to help force water out. Turn it off as soon as the system is drained. Step #9: Recap all of the drains and close down all of the faucets. Step #10: Bypass the water heater in preparation to input the antifreeze. (If the water heater is not bypassed, it will fill up and waste about 6 gallons of antifreeze.) Step #11: Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank). Connect a piece of clear tubing to the inlet side of the pump and put the other end into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV antifreeze. Step #12: After turning the water pump on and pressurizing the system, start with the closest faucet and slowly open first the hot and then the cold valves until antifreeze appears, and repeat with all faucets, moving away from the water pump. Step #14: Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go outside to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen. Step #15: Pour a cupful of antifreeze down in each drain. Step #16: Pour a cupful of antifreeze into the toilet and flush it. Step #17: Make sure the electric heating unit on your water heater is turned off, if it has one, to protect the element if it remains plugged in while being stored. Step #18: Make sure all of the faucets are closed and consult your unit’s owner’s manual for instruction on how to winterize the ice machine and washer and dryer, if your unit has them. Step #19: Wipe down all counters, inside of the refridgerator and freezer and table tops with a sanitizing cleaning spray. Step #20: Vacuum your unit to make sure all crumbs are picked up.